http://classifieds.stangnet.com/showproduct.php?product=28069

good price, for its condition, tell me what u guys think of it because im am very interested in buying it. tell me if it is a red flag or a steal

Theres too much work done to it to justify such a low price.

There really isn’t that much work done to it a lot of the items he has listed are just stock items. There is no trans so keep that in mind, but if the body is in good shape it would be a good project car.

A few things to consider is that the bottom end is out of a explorer so I’m not sure if it came with forged pistons. The 87 used a speed density fuel injection system rather then a mass air flow system. Mass air didn’t come out until 89 (88 for California cars) So any modifications you do will not really get you much unless you switch to a mass air system (there is kits that are pretty easy to install) or a programmable computer system (pricy)

So still for 1900 is pretty cheap there are a lot of decent aftermarket parts for it. I would say that if the body is not rotting out and the pistons actually are forged then it would be a steal, but even if the pistons aren’t forged it might still be worth it if the body is in good shape.

Edited by DBLDREW (Tue Jan 3, 06   7:03 PM)

from the lil picture it looks good. i keep on thinking that since they came out with the speed dencity EFI in 86 i thought the massair was set up in 87. bah

Not to mention that bottom end already has 80k on it, kinda high considering that you also have to get and install a new transmission on it.

No it did change to mass air in 89, here is a link to mustang facts…

http://www.mustanggt.org/89gt.htm

Here is a quote from the article..


“One major mechanical revision did happen in 1989 - 5.0Ls in all 50 states were switched over to mass airflow sensor metering which replaced the speed density system found on all GT’s in 1988 (except those sold in California which had already switched).”

80k isn’t that big of a deal. I would defiantly pull the motor and have it honed, and new rings. It would be pretty cheap to go that rout, but only if there are forged pistons and the cylinder walls are still straight. Which after 80k they should still be fine. I had over 100k on my 302 when I pulled it out to swap in the 351W. I gave the short block to a friend of mine who dropped it into a ranger. Anyway he was planning on buying new pistons and going .030 over. But the machinist said the cylinder walls were still fine so he just went with a hone and new rings. Now I drove that car hard, very hard with nitrous right towards the end. So how hard is the motor from an explorer being driven? I can guarantee not as hard as I was driving my car.

But still the car is only $1900. That’s not that expensive, and not having a trans I actually see as a good thing if he is planning to make some serious power, the stock trans will never hold up anyway. Also if the pistons are in fact cast rather then forged it wouldn’t be that big of a deal. Although it would cost more money, there are some advantages to going with an aftermarket piston anyway. The valve releases in the stock trw forged pistons are only big enough to go with a 1.94” intake valve. Now that is defiantly a step up from stock and there are some good heads that run the smaller intake valve like the AFR 165, or the Edelbrock performer 5.0. But if you did go with a aftermarket piston, most will have valve releases that will handle 2.02” valve and some will go up the a huge 2.10” valve.

so the explorer block is better than the stock
yes i am planning to have a lot of power so i will have to get another trans, like a t-5

No it will not be better then a stock mustang block, at best it will be the same. The only difference that could be there is that the explorer might not have forged pistons while a stock mustang will. But the actual block, crank, rods will be the same, it’s just a question if ford put forged pistons in the explorer engines. If I was to guess they probably didn’t. But I still don’t see that as a reason not to get the car. What are your goals with the car? As in how much power are you looking to get? If you want say over 500hp I personally would change the pistons regardless if they are forged or not just so you can get bigger valve releases and better flowing heads. Trying to make over 500hp with just a 1.94” intake valve is harder to do, not that it is impossible it will just take nitrous or boost.

As far as what trans I would go with one of the Tremmic trans rather then the stock t-5. Depending on how much torque your motor will put out will determine which one to get.

since i'm only 16 and isn't experienced enough to handel a car with say 500 horse power. i just want a decent street stang, one that would have some where around 300 to 400 horses.But first i want to go ahead and replace the parts that usually fails for the age of this car like fuel pumps alternator parts like that. change the pistons, after market camshaft probably for the higher rpms msd ingnitoin and just bolt ons will be all the engine will see.And maybe after some experience a supercharger, but thats a long ways off. I just want a relieable 5.0 that take me to work and back anddoens't give too many problems, and a decent 1/4 mile mustang to boot.

so tremmics are able to handle more torque than t-5s
the car will probably have somewhere around 300 to 340 fp of torque so will matter then

Im 17 and I have a car with over 320 hp and 335 fpt, but hey im not complaining.....That mustang might be good for its price but you need to look up vehicle history for warrents, crashes, and ect...Just make sure you buy a liable car that wont break down on u withing a week of getting it.

im 17 own 2 cars currently and owned many my stang has more then 300 hp and my truck can go play in the mudd and doubles as a daily driver.

300-400HP is pretty easy to do. What is your budget?

about 300 a month after my car insurance.