That's awesome, a GN will be in my garage some day

-Ben

word to the wise...watch out whats behind you when you do smoky burnouts at stop lights saw a guy in a 5.0 do it for atleast 30 seconds the new jag behind him got a bit of a rubber bath. jag owner got pissed called the cops ect... although it looked really cool when you can jsut see the buildings across the street faintly through the smoke screen

lol. Yeah it is. I think I AM gonna do linelocks for the simple fact that I don't have the money to replace the rotors, brake pads, calipers, etc. once a month

Are you talikng about the GNX when you say special edition? Thats a bad ass ride. My step bro has the lap top setup in his also.

I'm not exactly sure what a line-loc is, may be the same thing as i'm fixin to describe... but a friend of mine has this deal on his car that hooks up into the brake master cylinder and he has this dial inside the cab of his car that distributes the brakes anywhere from 50/50 front/rear to 1/99 front/rear to 99/1 front/rear... (in percent)... its pretty kewl... he uses it on his AutoX type car (its races similar to AutoX but longer... dont remember the name of the races tho)... its real simple to switch the brakes and such.. he uses it going into turns depending on how he wants to throw the rear end around... but then again... he also uses it to put almost all the braking power in the front so he can do burnouts... hehe... anyways... i dont remember what that deal is called and i'm not sure what a line-loc is so they may be one in the same... LOL...

-Gor

line-loc locks the front braks and puts no pressure on the rear breaks to do burnouts at the track. or anywhere for that matter.

gor,

you're describing a wilwood brake proportioning valve. it basically changes the amount of pressure going to the rear brakes relative to the front.

oh and stryker, i changed a fuel pump last week in a mustang without even dropping the tank. we used an air nibbler and body saw to remove a panel in the trunk and basically make an access panel for it. proceeded to make a patch panel with 12 screws in it that seals to the trunk floor and contours to the undulations in the body panels. looks great, works great...just a thought for your s-10 dilemma.

jason
still want to knock my teeth out?

Ah... thats it... hehe... thanks jason... he told me what it was called a few weeks ago... just couldnt remember... haven't seen him since then tho... hehe... (he lives in Waco and comes down every now and again)... the brake deal is on his SS Camaro... FAST car... hehe... he's been talkin about swappin out that LS1 for a big block, but i dont think he'll do it... can make a lot of horsepower with the small block LS1...

anywayz...

thanks for the name of the brake deal... heh...

-Daniel

ehhh...Knockin your teeth out would be fun, but I'd have to ask ya to gimme some gas money for the drive down there...Kinda broke right now...:)
Ok...How exactly did you do that? Didn't you have to cut into the gastank? I don't wanna do anything that'll create sparks *ESPECIALLY when I'm right under the truck lol* I doubt you'll have responded by then, but tomorrow I'm startin work on the s10...hopefully. Don't have the pump, but we're gonna try a few things before that...Gonna change the fuel filter, spark plugs and wires, air filter, and the ignition...Just a few LESS expensive things lol. If that stuff don't do it, THEN I'm goin on to the pump...

what he was trying to tell you to do was cut into your bed and you should have access to your pump. then take the piece that you just cut out and throw it in the garbage. (it should only be about 6"x6") Take a new piece of metal slightly larger than the one you cut out and screw it in place. If you go in threw the access panel, you should see the top of the fuel pump and not have to drop the tank.

we didn't cut into the tank itself, just into the trunk floor (in your case the bed.) i'd start by locating the tank from underneath, try to judge the gap between the tank and the bed floor. look at photos and judge (this takes judgement, nothing tough, but think long and hard before you start drilling/cutting) where your in tank pump is fastened into the top of the tank. also figure out the direction of the hoses out of the tank....

then, drill a small hole (read: shallow - don't let the drill poke through quickly or you might hit the tank) large enough to put a jewlers saw through (a jewlers saw is the hand version of a body saw, a little easier to use when you don't know what's beneath). simply cut a section out big enough to see what's under there, then cut from there to make a panel. now, if the panel you take out is undulated (ridges in your bed), you may want to go to the junkyard and cut a similar but larger chunk out of a donor vehicle, so it'll fit nicely without a lot of work on the metal you'd be using as your access panel.

not rocket science, but it's not 100% easy either, but it is 100% easier than dropping a tank full of fuel (or empty for that matter).

jason

Ok...But then how would I replace the fuel pump??? It's inside the tank...

well most likely the fuel pump is suspended in the tank from above, with a big disc on top that locks into the tank surface like one of them doors on star wars. sometimes this disc also holds the fuel level sender as well. either way, in order to keep that seal from leaking gas 24-7, it has to be installed from the top of the tank, where a hole in your bed would access it.

i might be able to get photos of my bimmer tank to give you an example.

jason

yeah on the top of your tank theres a circle thing with a ring around it you take off with a screwdriver and everythig lifts out with the access hole it'll lift right out from the top and you shouldn't have any trouble jsut don't let rusty and chunks of shit which you will have fall into the tank. might be smart to use an air nibbler if you have one to cut the access hole out

he ain't got an air nibbler. get one at harbor china.

jason